Terradillos de Los Templarious to Calzada de Los Hernanillis
Miles to Santiago :240
Well I guess there are worse things in life. I’m writing this sitting in the shade if a Pelota court munching chorizo and drinking a cold one bought in the local shop after waiting 25 minutes for the locals to be served.
And I’ve just met two English kids who I can’t quite decide are Saints, saviours or just slightly unhinged. Im worried about them enough to give them some money. Not much. But some. More about them later
So I left Terradillos just before 6 am. I didn’t want to – but a great big lummox of a German who is trying to do 40 km a day woke me up by stomping around at 0430.
Can’t say I was sorry to leave though. . It was once a strategic base of the Knights Templars who were very active in these parts. Protecting pilgrims, annoying local royalty and becoming the biggest bank in the world. That sort of thing
The only sign of that noble past now is the hostel we stated in called Jaques de Molay in honour of the order’s last leader – burned at the stake after it suddenly became So Yesterday to be a Templar.
Not a good idea to have the king actually owing YOU money. The Templars were arrested executed, banished all on a Friday the 13th. Apparently thats why that date is a less than auspicious one
The “village” is quiet beyond belief. The only signs of life came when the fruit n veg wagon turned up. Cue scenes of great excitement from locals gathered around the truck for a good old chin wag before scuttling back to their homes
I left in the dark. way to the North there were repeated flashes of light like that scene out of Close Encounters. They were the aircraft warning lifts on the giant wind turbines that are on almost every hill here. Very pretty really. Like a series of giant flashbulb explosions.
For one day at least me and my walking buddies have gone separate ways. Im in another flyblown village in the municipal hostel. The good thing is that is free. The bad: not exactly what you’d call luxurious
The reason I’m here is that tomorrow I’ll be walking 25 km along the “finest example of a Roman road in Europe”
I had a 2 hour taste today. The only thing of note I passed was an abandoned swimming pool in the middle of nowhere. Literally in the middle of nowhere. Like at least 10 miles from the nearest building. Very odd
So it makes it even more odd that a 19 year old kid from Monmouth and his (slightly) older pall (let’s call them Joe and Tom) should pitch up here with a dog rescued from ruthless German troubadours
They took a wrong turn of course. Having no map. Or indeed anything beyond the clothes they are wearing and Santiago the rescue hound.
Joe looks thin. Too thin. They are cooking stuff themselves and sleeping under a tarpaulin. A worrying state of affairs when you think most hostels only charge 5 euros a night.
Joe didn’t bother with Uni or A levels. But he’s clearly a bright if somewhat naive kid. Tom is a little more worldly wise.
Joe worked for a bit in a box factory
“yeah, my story just gets better and better doesn’t it ?” he told me with a wry smile
Tom hasn’t even got a bloody hat. And it’s 32 degs today
They’re heading to Leon to go busking.
On the way they fell in with some Germans who had a couple of dogs. But they couldn’t afford to feed them and were planning to kill one. Yes kill it
So Joe and Tom rescued the dog now renamed Santiago. They look To me as if they can barely feed themselves let alone this hound.
“his name used to be Envy which is ironic because people would rather give him food than give us anything'” says Joe.
Two good kids looking for something I guess.
God knows what.
But I’m slightly concerned about them