Where the Buzzards fly

Day 19

Somewhere to Leon.
Distance 18 km

Yeah I know what you’re thinking

18 km. that’s nothing right? Anyone can walk 18 km.

Well trying walking it in 35 degrees with a cognac-induced hangover that was threatening to reduce me to a Roland-esque state of cranial implosion

Guys – he was the medieval warrior who died from ruptured temples. I mentioned him 19 days ago? Oh do keep up …

So there I am walking down the Camino which in this section involved walking alongside a long stretch of main road

I’m doing something – anything- to take away the pain inside my head. So I start singing. I am not a good singer.

I was almost past the front porch of a decaying house when I noticed an aged Señora watching me with undisguised contempt.

She put her fingers in her ears. And said something that sounded like

“ay ay ay …, non non non”

Which I can’t help thinking may have been a slight criticism

So today i met and walked for 3 hours with a kid I suspect may end running her country Or possibly another

Her name is Asia (oddly a corruption of Joanna) and she is Polish

21 years old, tiny and shouldering a back pack almost as big as her

Some “old guy about 50” (thanks Asia) had just tried to get her into his car so I’d like to think she was happy to walk with me. But I think she is tough enough to sort out problems on her own.,

But Lord she looks young. About 15 . I find myself worrying about these kids. But I think Asia will be ok

She was certainly lecturing me about the Camino and what i could get out of it. She even told me off when she thought I wasn’t paying attention. Which I was

She is very philosophical. Very positive

True to form I wasnt having much of that but she didn’t mind

We saw two buzzards circling over the nests of swifts. And they were being dive bombed by the swifts as they tried to protect their young

“This is a metaphor for life,” says little Asia

“Eh?”says me

“yes… Conflict and fighting between ourselves ..”

I was just about to say what a load if bollocks when she burst out laughing

I don’t know what Polish is for a wind up but thats what it was

“i say this just for you” laughed this amazing kid.

Another person who makes the Camino.such a humbling experience

She headed to a hostel which charged 5 euros a night I’m writing this outside a hotel in Leon which – ahem charges a bit more than that

So here I am. 0200 am. This city is heaving. Just had my photo taken with a hen party dressed as sailors. May post that as long as my wife sees the funny side….entirely innocent J honestly x

Will post more on Leon tomorrow

Oh my room no is 101. The receptionist didn’t get it when I asked if there were rats there….



One thought on “Where the Buzzards fly

  1. Buen Camino Bob!

    I have thought that I have to many things with which I would like to share with you, that I decided to write this message to you. Two things: sorry for the mistakes, sorry for sometimes being to naïve. Those are the mistakes of being young and too philosophical in life.

    It’s really amazing (I know, it’s not enough sophisticated world, cliché and so common- but like Camino so unusual and usual in the same time) that most of the people with whom I have contact right now, are people who I remember somehow till the end of my life (at lest till the end of the stage of development in which I am right now). That’s why I felt that I really need to write to you. During the journey I have realized how much we can give other people thanks to putting them into our biography line ( I am talking right now about your blog). I think that it is really the nicest way to archive our memories- not only write it in our diary but also give other people a certificate that they create our reality. For example I have read with a big affection about 21 of July. It made my day indeed.

    After this big introduction 😉 I have to write that 2, 3 days after our conversation I have met those two guys: Ben and Mike from Wales, who rescue the dog. They gave him to the lady in Astorga and she said that she need a dog and she will take care of him. Shit happens  . They are really nice guys, me and my friend, got a nice conversation. Boys did not take a shower since 7 days so we gave them an instruction how to go to the next hostel for donation. I talk with Mike, the older one, and I think that we caught the connection. It was a big pleasure to know them.

    Secondly, I saw a message which was created for you, it was put on the one of the stones on which the kilometers to Santiago were written. Sth like: “go further Bob- the journalist” – I do not remember exactly. I am really happy that finally you managed to finish sth. Sth what is not really easy to do (even if now I think that is really easy, thanks all those people and nature, thanks to this what changes in us). I am really happy. You made a little my Camino, do you know? 

    If we talk about me. Last days of Camino, because they where very commercial, I have spend outside with my Lithuanian friend. Mike and Ben were our inspiration. Nature, taking baths in the river, eating good food and drinking wine, walking during the evenings. It was the best time. However, I appreciate and understand your need of sleeping in a good places. Sometimes we just need it. And it is not an irony. Seriously!

    I have reached Camino on 1 of August. I have staid there 3 hours and took a bus to Fisterra. It was the best end of the Camino which I could imagine. Such beautiful sunset as there probably I have never seen in my life.

    Now, I feel really good. Still I have some duties which I have to do on my University. Camino has changed me: it changes that I have to be more rational when it is needed and more creative when it is needed too. That’s the most important I think.

    Being a journalist seems to be a really cool job ; ) Thank you for everything. It is funny how conversation and just second person can stay in our memory.

    Take care of yourself Bob,

    P.S. this is my e-mail: krawczkjoanna90@gmail.com

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