For the first time in 17 days I ended the day in a foul mood. I may as well be honest about the lows as well as the highs
The day started well. Breakfast with the delightful the Swedish singer songwriter Alexandra Jardvall l saw her performing with a local choir in a church on the trail.
I came across them after a day walking through woods and meadows. The Church doors were open and they were rehearsing Annie’s Song
“You fill up my senses like a night in the forest “
Fate I tell you
Alexandra was brilliant. So was the choir
Check her out at alexandra-music.com
They all came back to my hotel after the concert and we sat talking music and politics til the early hours
So after breakfast and discussions about Bruce Springsteen ( her main influence) I headed off past spectacular waterfalls and a meeting with a bouncing ball of energy called Urban who works with refugees here.
He gave me a free lunch and took me to a former hotel where I interviewed some of the 600 residents
Long story short…the hotel was only 6 km from my intended destination that day but my backpack was left 10km further back at Urban’s home.
We drove back to pick it up …..then I realised that Urban quite reasonably expected me – as a pilgrim – to actually walk back they way we had just come. A total distance of some 15 km
Which I did. On the way I met a lovely lass deep in the forest who’d built her own eco friendly solar powered home. With recycled wood furniture. Beautiful simple place powered by solar energy.
She gave me chocolates and water from a spring.
Then I continued along a “Troll Path” (we are not talking internet here)
So I felt chipper. Until my old blister developed a new blister.
Then the signs into Are got slightly confusing. Leading me up two steep dead ends. Very steep dead ends
Blister got worse. I became ill tempered. My Zen mood disappearing with every painful step.
I limped into the empty ski resort of Are at 8pm. The hostel was closed, improving my mood further…. A “helpline” told me the price of a room was 750 Kroner. About 67 bloody quid
I eventually managed to find a local woman who rents out a room at a much cheaper rate. And she’s kind and helpful. And also works with refugees to improve their language skills.
I’ve just eaten a £12 pizza and drunk two £6 beers
But I’m feeling better. However my blisters throb ominously. And in two days I take on the mountains…