Blisters and trolls. Day 17 on the World’s most northern pilgrimage trail #Sweden #Travel

For the first time in 17 days I ended the day  in a foul mood.  I may as well be honest about the lows as well as the highs

The day started well.  Breakfast with the delightful the Swedish singer songwriter Alexandra Jardvall l saw her  performing with a local choir in a church on the trail.


I came across them after a day walking through woods and meadows.  The Church doors were open and they were  rehearsing Annie’s Song

“You fill up my senses like a night in the forest “

Fate I tell you

Alexandra was brilliant.  So was the choir

Check her out at

They all came back to my hotel after the concert  and we sat talking music and politics til the early hours

So after breakfast and discussions about Bruce Springsteen ( her main influence) I headed off past spectacular waterfalls and a meeting with a bouncing ball of energy  called Urban who works with refugees here.


He gave me a free lunch and took me to a former hotel where I interviewed some of the 600 residents

Long story short…the hotel was only 6 km from my  intended destination that day but my backpack was  left 10km  further back  at Urban’s home.

We drove back to pick it up …..then I realised that Urban quite reasonably expected me –  as a pilgrim –   to actually walk back they way we had just come.  A total  distance of some 15 km

Which I did.  On the way  I met a lovely lass deep in the forest who’d built her own eco friendly solar powered home.  With recycled wood furniture.  Beautiful simple place powered by solar energy.


She gave me chocolates and water from a spring.

Then I continued along a “Troll Path” (we are not talking internet here)


So I felt chipper.  Until my old blister developed a new blister.  

Then the signs into Are got slightly confusing. Leading me up two steep dead ends.  Very steep dead ends

Blister got worse.  I became ill tempered. My Zen mood disappearing with every painful step.

I limped into the empty ski resort of Are  at 8pm. The hostel was closed, improving my mood further…. A “helpline” told me the price of a room was 750 Kroner.  About 67 bloody quid

I eventually managed to find a local woman who rents out a room at a much cheaper rate.  And she’s kind and helpful.  And also works with refugees to improve their language skills.  

I’ve just eaten a £12 pizza and drunk two  £6 beers

But I’m feeling better. However  my blisters throb ominously.  And in two days I take on the mountains…


5 thoughts on “Blisters and trolls. Day 17 on the World’s most northern pilgrimage trail #Sweden #Travel

  1. Ran into you in St Olaf’s church this morning, and glad I saw you sign the guestbook, otherwise I’d never have known about all the Olafs around here. Your walking trips make me envious (mostly)–guess I’ll have to read more to learn where you started this one. Wishing you safe travels (and as it’s gotten chilly and rainy here in Åre tonight, I wish you warmth too, and hope you’re not out in the weather somewhere).

  2. Hey, it was really nice to meet you and also listening to all your stories! Looking forward to seeing you again. Can you tell me about all the moose meets you’ve had? 😂😋❤️

    1. Hello !,just been listening to you on YouTube !, moose meets? Moose meat maybe. That’s the closest I’ve got to meeting a moose. I didn’t even see one at the Kiss a Moose farm for goodness sake 🙂

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