The end is nigh. Day 30 on pilgrimage from Baltic to Atlantic

In two days all this will be over.  I will have been on the road for exactly a month.  I think I might get emotional.

But right now I’m in a small log cabin originally used for storing meat for the family here.  It’s been converted  into a cosy little bunkhouse for travelers.  Very nice it is, too.


Last night I stayed at a hotel/hostel at a farm in Ersgard in the company of Stein the owner. – a man whose family goes back generations  on this land

He was keen to let me sample some gorgeous local beer made with smoked hops.  He poured some out for me and continued with a bit of a history lesson.

“This valley is unusual in Norway as it runs from west to east ,” he said, turning around to wave expansively at the landscape.

“And another thing…..Oh your beer is all gone,” he said , staring at my glass which I’d drained in seconds.

“Well it was rather nice,” I replied , a trifle embarrassed

“Yes that is  the beer that costs 140 kroner ,” said his wife , Greta

That’s £11.67 in real money…

Today was one of those awkward treks through a forest.  The path constantly undulating and fallen trees and roots tripping up the unwary. IE me

They must have some bloody great storms here cos huge trees had been uprooted and tossed around like matchwood

My fellow pilgrim , a  Danish student called Linette , skipped through the trees like some sort of wood nymph and soon left me far behind – sweating, stumbling and cursing prodigiously

I felt trapped in a scene from Lord of The Rings.  The rock faces and marshes we passed by all had information  boards with names like somethinggaard this or doo dah-bond this

The wood became so dark I half expected  to see Bilbo Baggins stumbling along or Gollum leaping out at me.


And let me tell you if Gollum had showed me an easy path out of that forest I’d have paid him a sight more than a golden ring


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