Landscape and Losers. Week 3 on the #viafrancigena #travel #Italy 

It feels like I’m moving through the real Tuscany.  Vineyards abound.  Along with olive grives , pencil -thin cypress trees, fields of  sunflowers and olive groves.

All very life enhancing but two days ago I wasn’t feeling quite as uplifted 

We’d stopped at a hostel run by Roberto and his wife.  Dedicated Christians and I guess spiritual descendants of the Knights Hospitalers who have protected pilgrims down the ages, they performed a rather eccentric foot washing ceremony.

Mrs Roberto solemnly moved down a line of pilgrims arranged in a half circle of chairs.  She poured water over our frankly putrid feet before kneeling to kiss our shins.   I was on the point of warning about my athlete’s foot but kept quiet on account of not knowing the Italian for horrible fungal infection.
But the real “fun” was drinking in The Worst Bar In The World 

It was just across a hot  dusty road and the bar doubled as a petrol.station 

All the local losers gravitated to this watering hole which seemed to be run by the senior petrol pump attendant.  A youngish Italian dude clearly frustrated by the roll of the dice that life has dealt him. 

His mate had one job to do.  Waiting for the odd car to arrive.  But he was drunk and when a driver made the horrible mistake of stopping and   expecting a re fuelling. -. he just sat at the table looking sullenly at the customer  before being bollocked by his boss.

And for some reason the boss   appeared to be wearing underpants on his head.

A few local drunks turned up. Had arguments. Pushed each other.

Then two cops arrived. They pulled over a hapless motorist.  Searched  his car  -.presumably, for drugs,and then let him continue on his way with a shrug of the shoulders and wave of the hands 

A drunk with a face of a bruised pomegranate accosted one of the cops and pointed him towards the guy with the Y fronts,on his head 

I have no idea what this local grievance was about but it resulted in Pomegranate face and Underpants Head having a massive row 

All the time, the shaven headed cop who had the physical and indeed facial characteristics of a gorilla just stared them before shrugging his,shoulders,again and walking away.

Just another typical day on the road 


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